Recipes for the salt-air season

Ingredients

• 10 large dry-packed sea scallops (about 340 g), side muscle removed
• 2 ears sweet corn, kernels cut off
• 4 tbsp unsalted butter, divided
• 1 tbsp neutral oil
• 1 small shallot, finely diced
• Juice of ½ lemon
• 2 tbsp snipped chives
• Flaky salt and black pepper

Method

1. Pat the scallops very dry and season both sides with salt. Let them sit on paper towels for 5 minutes.
2. Heat the oil in a heavy skillet over high heat until it shimmers. Sear the scallops, not touching, for 90 seconds until deeply golden. Flip, add 2 tbsp butter, and baste for 45 seconds. Move to a plate.
3. Lower the heat to medium. Add the remaining butter and shallot, cook 1 minute, then add the corn and a pinch of salt. Cook 3 minutes until the butter turns nutty brown.
4. Off the heat, stir in lemon juice and chives. Spoon the corn onto plates and top with the scallops.

Ingredients

• 2 kg soft-shell clams
• 3 tbsp coarse salt, for soaking
• 3 tbsp butter
• 5 cloves garlic, sliced
• 1 cup (240 ml) dry white wine
• ½ cup chopped flat-leaf parsley
• Crusty bread and lemon wedges, to serve

Method

1. Soak the clams in cold water with the salt for 30 minutes so they spit out their sand. Lift them out, don't pour, and rinse.
2. Melt the butter in a wide pot, add the garlic and cook until just fragrant. Pour in the wine and bring to a boil.
3. Add the clams, cover, and steam for 5 to 7 minutes, shaking the pot once, until the shells open. Discard any that stay shut.
4. Scatter with parsley and serve in bowls with the broth, bread and lemon.

Ingredients

• 450 g cooked lobster meat, in generous chunks
• 6 tbsp salted butter, plus more for the buns
• 4 New England-style split-top buns
• 1 tbsp lemon juice
• 1 tbsp chopped chives
• Pinch of paprika

Method

1. Melt the 6 tbsp butter gently in a small saucepan. Add the lobster and warm it for 2 to 3 minutes, no longer, so it stays tender.
2. Butter the flat sides of the buns and toast them in a skillet until golden and crisp.
3. Stir lemon juice into the lobster, pile it into the buns, and spoon over any butter left in the pan.
4. Finish with chives and a dusting of paprika. Eat immediately, outside if possible.

Ingredients

• 115 g salt pork, finely diced
• 1 large onion, diced
• 600 g new potatoes, cut in 2 cm chunks
• 3 sprigs thyme and 1 bay leaf
• 4 cups (950 ml) fish or light chicken stock
• 700 g smoked and fresh haddock, mixed, skinned
• 1 cup (240 ml) whole milk and ½ cup (120 ml) heavy cream
• Pilot crackers, to serve

Method

1. Render the salt pork in a heavy pot over medium heat until crisp, about 8 minutes. Lift out and set aside, leaving the fat.
2. Cook the onion in the fat until soft. Add the potatoes, thyme, bay leaf and stock. Simmer 12 minutes until the potatoes are nearly tender.
3. Nestle in the haddock and simmer gently for 6 minutes. Break it into large flakes with a spoon.
4. Pour in the milk and cream and warm through without boiling. Season, remove the thyme stems and bay, and serve topped with the pork and crackers.

Ingredients

• 4 halibut fillets (about 170 g each), skin on if possible
• 2 cups (300 g) fresh or frozen peas
• ¼ cup mint leaves
• 3 tbsp olive oil, plus 1 tbsp for the pan
• Zest and juice of 1 lemon
• 2 tbsp butter
• Salt and pepper

Method

1. Simmer half the peas in salted water for 2 minutes. Drain and blend with the mint, 3 tbsp olive oil, lemon juice and a pinch of salt until smooth.
2. Pat the fish dry and season. Heat 1 tbsp oil in an ovenproof skillet over medium-high heat and sear skin-side down for 4 minutes.
3. Flip, add the butter, and slide into a 200°C (400°F) oven for 4 to 5 minutes, until just opaque in the centre.
4. Warm the remaining peas in the pan juices. Spoon the green sauce onto plates, add peas and fish, and finish with lemon zest.

Ingredients

• 24 live Maine oysters, scrubbed
• 1 large shallot, minced very fine
• ½ cup (120 ml) apple cider vinegar
• 1 tbsp dry white wine
• ½ tsp cracked black pepper
• Crushed ice and lemon wedges

Method

1. Stir together the shallot, vinegar, wine and pepper. Chill for at least 15 minutes.
2. Fold a towel around your hand. Insert an oyster knife into the hinge, twist to pop it, then slide along the top shell to cut the muscle.
3. Slip the knife under the oyster to free it, keeping the liquor in the shell. Check for bits of shell.
4. Arrange on a bed of crushed ice and serve with the mignonette and lemon.

Ingredients

• 1 cup (130 g) all-purpose flour
• ¾ cup (110 g) fine cornmeal
• 1 tsp baking powder and ½ tsp salt
• ¾ cup (150 g) sugar
• 115 g butter, softened
• 2 eggs and ¾ cup (180 ml) buttermilk
• 1½ cups (220 g) wild blueberries, tossed in 1 tbsp flour
• 3 tbsp honey and a pinch of flaky salt, to finish

Method

1. Heat the oven to 175°C (350°F) and butter a 23 cm round pan.
2. Whisk the flour, cornmeal, baking powder and salt. Beat the butter and sugar until pale, then beat in the eggs one at a time.
3. Alternate adding the dry mix and buttermilk to the butter, mixing until just combined. Fold in the berries.
4. Bake 35 to 40 minutes, until a skewer comes out clean. Warm the honey, brush it over the hot cake, and sprinkle with flaky salt.